Hokkaido trip 2020 Part 2 of 3
On our second day, we started earlier than planned because I found the Otaru's Rinyu Asaichi(morning market) that starts from 4 AM, we started at 6. This is used by the locals as well. The Japanese breakfast here is real cheap, starting from ¥980~ Wow!
My daughter liked this salmon with sushi tesishoku(set).
And, I settled for this hokke (Okhotsk atka mackerel) teishoku. This fish is largely caught in the sea of Okhotsk, so it's another treat of Hokkaido. We were both happy and satisfied with the native breakfast.
Above picture is the outside view of the restaurant and also market's back side entrance, facing the port area.
You can see this if you drive or walk from Otaru's city center to the port area just 5 minutes by car.
Below picture you will usually see along the road which is the port's back and front of the market.
I'd love to buy seafood in this market and talked to one store owner. They can send by takyubin or you can also order by phone. Good option to reduce luggage. The whole salmon was cheap and I think its nice to make smoke salmon.
After breakfast we started our way to Shakotan. A beautiful mountainous peninsula.
It is a beautiful seaside drive passing by the beautiful seaside terrace houses overlooking the sea of Otaru, nice sceneries off the coast of Yoichi then, Furubira.
We passed by a lot of seaside campers along the beaches and the off road mountain side. I observed that the road here in Hokkaido are well maintained. It was easy to drive but a lot of drivers here doesn't use turn blinker lights. A little bit dangerous.
This is the candle rock, famous for its sunset scenery. It will look like a lighted candle on the right time and position. So to my readers, if you have that kind of photo, kindly share.
Calm beach on a pandemic summer.
I like this road going straight right to the sea.
Maybe a better photographer can give better photo out of this. I got this after passing the Shakotan town going to Cape Kamui using the short cut road to the mountain side not the sea side.
This is the view upon arrival from the free parking lot of Kamui Misaki Cape. My main goal for this trip.
Picturesque mountain and sea.
It says, please donate 100yen to preserve nature here. A very modest amount to ask. Of course we should all support and cooperate in preserving the beauty and nature. Kamui Misaki( Cape Kamui), Hokkaido. Shakotan Peninsula. The beautiful Shakotan ocean called “Shakotan Blue” is one of The Niseko Shakotan Otaru Quasi-National Park and is designated as marine park in Hokkaido.
This is the entrance to the cape. It says, women are forbidden to enter. In ancient times a lot of sacred places in Japan forbids women to enter, but not anymore. This is a sacred place, Kamui means spiritual or divine being in Ainu mythology, Ainu are the original people of Hokkaido, the kanji also means God.
But in another twist of rumor that I heard is that women were forbidden to enter here because this cape is dangerous. As you can see now we cannot enter, it is closed due to strong wind and for the safety of everyone. Meaning I have to come back here again next year, because I want to go to the tip of the cape.
Anyways, enter or not this place is beautiful and serene.
Some of the flora found in summer.
Found this wild rose with big rose hips.
I also found warning after stepping on the grass land here to beware of mamushi( Japanese poisonous snake)
Nice walking paths
You can observe that the world is round and the famous "Shakotan blue" here on a nice day.
Too bad for this wanderlust foot, no tip of the cape this time, all the more that this will be back.
This is the shape map of the cape. See you next year.
This is one of the restaurants in the area that serves the famous uni bowl.
But it is closed as well.
Next, we both agreed to drive to Shimamui coast, just a 15 minute drive back towards the town of Shakotan on the seaside road, one of the three famous places here in Shakotan after the Kamui Misaki and Ogon coast. My daughter wanted to come here, incidentally this area is a little bit similar to her name, Hmmnnn.
Anyways, it's lunch time ,we have to eat the famous delicacy here, the sea urchin bowl (uni donburi). Even locals drive here to eat the sea urchin specially during its harvest season. I looove uni since my arrival here in Japan. I used to order uni first when we go to a sushi restaurant back then. But then, I got caught into other delicious dishes of Japan and haven't eaten much of uni for quite a while.
We found this restaurant at the entrance of Shimamui coast and yes, definitely they have it. This is Rinko restaurant, it has a nice view of the mountain to enjoy the food. There are 2 varieties of the sea urchin of Shakotan, the purple and red. We ordered both so we can taste the difference and share half- half, because it is super expensive to order the one bowl with both variety.
We have to watch out for expenses so we can taste more food as we go around and travel more and don't get broke. Smart aren't we?
And oh, an added excitement for me, look at this bowl, it is made of natural bamboo with its natural curve and grains. Magnificent Japanese artisans!
Let's taste and see the sea urchin now. Uhmmm! It's super creamy, sweet and no fish taste or smell at all. You know that it is really really fresh and definitely the best uni I ever had.
The difference? The purple, the darker one is tastier than the red, the light one. But if I did not eat it side by side maybe I will not know or am I just too excited to eat this. It is both very very delicious. The purple is much more expensive of course and it always gets sold out first. Everyone wants to eat this specialty.
Well, verdict? Its all worth it maybe next time I am going to eat a bigger bowl, save money now to eat more here in Hokkaido.
After lunch we walked to the entrance of the coast, a tunnel? Yes, after walking the dark tunnel.
Eww, they like drama presenting their nature, huh.
To the right, nice scenery of greenery and coast and more rocks.
You can have the "Shakotan blue" photo here on a clear day. But today just a little.
In the middle is that beautiful blue sky with those wanderlust feet is happy about to have been. Hoping to stay here for a longer time.
I also found this wild rose upon descending the steep rough steps from the top mountain entrance, same as the one at Kamui Misaki but with a giant rose hip, bigger than the large strawberry of Japan. That rose hip is one large dose of Vitamin C. Wow! And found that busy bee working hard for nature's sake. Beautiful color no need to edit.
Thats the 1 fourth of the steps going up and down this beautiful coast.
My daughter and I who love adventure walked farther to the towering rocky mountains and it was amazing there with a very serene feeling. Transparent water, many flying and nesting birds above. A nice area to meditate, yoga, SUP, barbecue, finding sea creatures and photo photo.
My tip, you should wear marine shoes, this is rocky but water quality is superb, reduce luggage, but bring your water, this is a good exercise.
After my sweaty exercise going up from the coast back to the free parking lot. I saw soft ice cream at Rinko restaurant and bought those only 2 flavors in one mix to cope with the heat. Then drama unfolds.
Misaki no Yu is a short drive from Shimamui coast and Kamui Misaki, it is a nice place to take an onsen bath and watch the sunset. It has open air bath which is lovely and the admission fee is only ¥610. Wow!
Address: Nozuka-cho 212-1, Shakotan
Tel.: 0135-47-2050
After being refreshed.
Now, we have to drive to Furano for our last night of stay. The navigator says, it will take us about 3 and a half hours, ¥2100 toll using an expressway. It's my first time here, so I just let the navi take the fastest route.
I was surprised because after we got out of the expressway we took a remote area. and we are getting into a deeper forest and going up a mountain so the road was getting steep and narrow.
There were many cars but not a sign of a village or any building for driving like.... eternity.
In Kanto region there are signs of people living even on a remote driving. Now, I realize what I read that Hokkaido is for real vast. I am thinking why a city as famous as Furano will not have an expressway exit near the city. I am also a little worried with some blogs I read warning about wild animals while driving in Hokkaido. I kept glancing on navi's kilometers and time left. But there were many cars so we thought now that this is the normal Hokkaido road.
I heard a beautiful falls or river sound along the way. Usually I will be stopping by to check on that but now I decided not to, its getting darker, you know. I am adventurous but safety is priority. I will go this road again next time and will check on these things.
Oh well, this is what I like with driving, the tense moments, discovering and learning process.
At last, a sign of a village. We arrived at Furano safe and 30 minutes earlier than what the navi first estimated.
No pictures of the road anymore, I hope next time I can take a video. It was a beautiful remote road but here I confirmed that Hokkaido roads are better, and easier to drive.
I took an AirBnB accommodation for us here. Will talk about it in the next part.
Thank you for reading and See you there.
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